Quandong Parlour18+
Evenings

The cold-weather season opens with soup

Every year the first cold evening is marked at Quandong Parlour by a long supper, a pot of soup on every table and a lamp left lit in the front window.

You can tell the season has turned in Ceduna by the colour of the sky at five o'clock. It goes from white to a deep, clear blue, and the wind comes in off the water with a sharpness that sends people looking for their jumpers. Felicity Morrison lit the lamps a little earlier than usual, and the first guests arrived before the bell had finished ringing. They came in stamping their feet, and the dining room greeted them with the smell of bread.

Two rings resting beside a stack of books

The supper

Lucy Duncan began with pumpkin and sage soup, served in deep bowls with a basket of wattleseed damper. Then came lamb rump with garlic potatoes, whiting for those who preferred fish, and a beef cheek pie for the table that wanted something hearty. Pudding was sticky date, and the tea was brewed strong. A guest asked whether the soup could be served every night, and Lucy said that it could, but that the cold weather would not last for ever.

The room

Every table was full by six, which is unusual for a Wednesday. Guests had come from the farms and from the town, and a family who had driven in along the highway stayed for the whole evening. The dining room was warm, the windows were fogged, and Liam Allen moved through it refilling teapots.

The casino room

At half past seven the bell was struck twice, and a quiet procession made its way through the wide doorway. Roulette drew a crowd, blackjack was gentle and poker was loud only when somebody laughed. All of it was played with chips of no value, and not one guest asked for anything beyond a second pot of tea.

Looking ahead

The cold weather is our favourite season, and the house seems to settle into it. Soups come earlier on the list, the Sunday roast moves forward an hour and the lamp stays in the window. If you have not visited before, now is an excellent time to come and see why.