Quandong Parlour18+
Kitchen

A new list for the cooler weeks

When the evenings turn cool, the kitchen turns to pies, soups and slow roasts. Lucy Duncan explains what has changed on the list, and what has stayed exactly as it was.

The change begins on a Monday, in a notebook. Lucy Duncan sits at the end of the bench with a pencil, rings the boats and the farms, and considers what the next six weeks will taste like. This year the list opens with snapper, which has been running well, and ends with a tart made from lemon myrtle leaves that she has been testing since the last of the hot weather.

Grilled fish with rice, salad and creamy sauce

What is new

Snapper with mint peas is the dish most guests mention first. The fillet is seared until the skin crackles and set on peas crushed with a little cream, with the mint added at the last moment so that it stays green. A second new plate is a beef cheek pie, braised for five hours and sealed under short pastry. It arrives at the table in its own small tin.

What has stayed

The whiting is still on the list, because no guest would forgive its removal. The oysters remain, the pumpkin soup remains, and the wattleseed damper is exactly as it was. Lucy says a list that changes everything at once is a list that has forgotten who it is cooking for, and she prefers to alter two or three dishes at a time.

The lemon myrtle tart

The tart took nine attempts. The first cracked, the second leaked, the third was too sour and the fourth too sweet. By the seventh the staff had stopped volunteering as tasters, and by the ninth the pastry held and the filling set. It is now served in a thin slice with a spoonful of thick cream, and it has already outsold the pavlova on two evenings.

A note for those with allergies

The new dishes carry the same warnings as the old. Tell Felicity Morrison when you book and Lucy will adjust the plate: the pie can be made without mushrooms, the tart without nuts and the snapper without butter. Please remind the waiter when you order, since the kitchen keeps a written record of every evening's requests.